A meyhane is not a restaurant; it is a shape of evening. Dinner takes three hours and hurrying ruins it. There are dozens within walking distance of us in Beyoğlu — around Nevizade, Asmalımescit and the Fish Market.
The order. Cold meze first: the waiter brings a tray to the table and you choose by pointing. Four to six is enough for two; more than that stays on the table. Then hot starters — calamari, mussels, börek. Grilled fish or meat comes last, and many tables never get there.
What to drink. Rakı, water and ice. Pour the rakı first and add the water, not the other way round. Drinking plenty of water alongside is not compulsory, only wise. If rakı is not for you, wine and beer are there; nobody asks.
The classic pairings: white cheese and melon with rakı; samphire, haydari, atom, fava, lakerda. The fish changes with the season — asking the waiter what is good today gets a better answer than reading the menu.
Fasıl. Some meyhanes have live music that moves between the tables. It is lovely, it shows up on the bill, and it makes conversation harder. For a quiet evening choose a place without it, or go early.
Cost. An evening for two with meze runs to about what a good restaurant dinner costs. The bill arrives as one; if you want to split it, say so in advance.
The hour. Start at eight. Seven is early, and after nine a table is hard to find.