Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque: what to know first

Istanbul's two emblems face each other, and both can be seen in one morning. Their rules are different.

Hagia Sophia. A mosque again since 2020; there is an admission charge and the upper gallery is set aside for visitors. The ground floor closes to visitors at prayer times, so check the hours before you go. Shoulders and knees covered, headscarves for women — handed out at the door. Shoes go into a bag.

What you are looking for. The mosaics are on the gallery level and take the morning light best. Standing under the dome and looking up is what gives you the sense of scale a photograph cannot; take a minute for it even in a crowd.

The Blue Mosque — Sultanahmet Camii. Free, and a working mosque. Visits outside prayer times; the afternoon is easier. The same dress rules. The blue İznik tiles it is named for are densest in the upper part of the dome, so again: look up.

Queues and hours. Hagia Sophia opens at nine, and being inside by half past saves the rest of the day. Between two and four in the afternoon is the busiest hour at both.

The square between them. Sultanahmet Square is the old hippodrome: the obelisk, the serpent column and the German Fountain are all here. It is a five-minute walk, and it turns the passage between the two buildings into a pause.

One warning. Be careful with people offering "guiding" in the square; official guides carry identification. Confirm any ticket price at the official desk before you pay.