Journal
What we write about the city, the building and around it.

The Historic Peninsula
One day on the Historic Peninsula
The order that fits Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet, Topkapı and the Basilica Cistern into a single day — and which one to drop.
July 27, 20266 min read

The Historic Peninsula
The Grand Bazaar: haggling, gates and the real price
How to walk a four-thousand-shop labyrinth without getting lost, how haggling actually works, and what is genuinely worth buying here.
July 19, 20265 min read

The Historic Peninsula
Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque: what to know first
Tickets, dress, hours and queues — the practical things that decide whether these two are a highlight or a disappointment.
June 28, 20265 min read

The Historic Peninsula
Topkapı Palace: which gate, and how long it takes
Four courtyards, a harem on a separate ticket, and a visit twice as long as most people budget for. Where to start and what to skip.
June 13, 20266 min read

The Historic Peninsula
The Spice Bazaar and Eminönü: spices, coffee, ferries
Confused with the Grand Bazaar but far smaller, far quicker and far easier to shop in. Twenty minutes on foot from the door.
May 29, 20265 min read